Go BottomHydraulics service question
 | dutchk
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 7 western PA 
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2003-07-27 60230
I'm new to the forum and new to tractors so be gentle! I inherited a CC 7234 (1996) gear drive. I had thought about trading it in on a new Deere but decided against it. It has 389 hours on it. It has been stored outside so there are some things to address there. I have paper evidence that the 200 hour service was performed on it. Since I'm starting fresh with the Cub and it is nearing 400 hours, I thought I would get familiar with the tractor with this service. It is now stored in a pole barn and I have or will attain any necessary tools to do the service. I do have an owner's manual and it states that part of the 200 hour service is to change the hydraulic filter. As far as I can tell, that is the only mention of the hydraulic system. While the location of the filter is pictured in the manual, I can't seem to find anything in related to how to drain the fluid (where the drain plug is), how to fill it, what the capacities are and fluid types are. Heck I'm not sure even how to check the fluid level! There is a CC dealer not far from here but his open hours aren't compatible with my business hours. I'll take a day off to go visit him but I would like to be armed with a little knowledge beforehand. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
One other thing, if I may. I mentioned the 7234 was stored outside previously. There is some paint chalking and a few rust spots on the loader, nothing I can't take care of. I am concerned about the loader hydraulic lines though. The feeder lines and connectors appeared to be rusted pretty well. I'm not sure what the original finish was because they are all coated with rust. The loader functions well but is this rust an issue other than aesthetics? If so what is the recommended solution? I imagine replacements are pretty expensive. The one thing I did purchase so far was a new rubber boot for the loader valve handle (joystick) because the old one was badly torn. I think the new one cost something like $35. I can imagine what new feeder lines will run.
Thanks Again
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 | AC5ZO
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 928 Rio Rancho, NM 87144 
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2003-07-27 60238
I don't have a cub, so I cannot address your question specific to that machine, but I can discuss the hydraulics. The basic finish on most hydraulic fittings is plated zinc, much like the finish on a machine screw. It is a finish that corrodes before the underlying steel.
If the zinc is completely missing, then the fittings have seen considerable moisture and possibly even some acidic conditions. (often caused by a local factory or power plant) You will have to evaluate the damage. If there is an even light coating of rust, and the fittings still have sharp details like the points on the hex wrench fittings, there should be no danger. If the fittings are highly pitted and the detail is missing, then the corrosion is severe and replacement should be considered.
I would expect that it is most likely that the rust is light and that it is not severe enough to require replacement. In that case, I would paint the fittings with a good rust inhibiting paint like Rustoleum or use a rust chemical converter.
With respect to hoses, the outer jacket may have some signs of aging. This outer rubber coating is only to protect the inner braid and does not directly affect the strength of the hose. Given the amount of exposure that this tractor seems to have seen, I would replace any hose where the outer jacket is completely cracked and would have allowed the same moisture and corrosion to get inside into the metal hose braid. If you develop new cracks in the outer rubber coating as you use the tractor, simply cover the crack with electrical tape and keep it out of the weather as much as you can until it is convenient to replace the hose.
Good luck with the tractor. Welcome to the board. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-07-28 60277
Sitting outside since '96 shouldn't be a problem for most tractors if the seat was kept tipped up, a can kept over the exhaust and the shifter boots in good condition. Most tractors are designed so sheds are optional and many tractors spend decades in the weather.
I would check the engine and hydraulic oil for signs of water and change all oils and filters on general principal. Like AC, I can't help with specifics. I'd look for a thumbscrew on top of the transmission. That's a common place to fill hydraulic/transmission oil and usually there's a dipstick on the screw. Drain plugs usually are fairly obvious on the TX bottom but often there are three of them. Same with the front axle if it has 4wd.
I don't know what to say about the hydraulic hose. Sun is what kills the outer coating and the hose are probably OK. I might want to replace them on general principal. Most dealers can make up hose so you might check prices. New hoses would have new fittings as well. The dealer likely will be helpful and fill in some of the blanks for you. It'd be good if owner's manuals are available through the dealer. ....
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2003-07-28 60304
Dutch, I too have a 7234 so maybe I can help you although I'm a novice compared to some of the folks here like TomG. You found a good site to ask questions. I'll give you some quick answers that I have time for right now. I have just over 150 hours on mine but thought I would do the 200 hour check a little early, probably before the snow flys this winter. Many of the things the 200 HR require were required at the 50 HR mark as well.
Well anyway you check the hydraulics using the dipstick that sticks up from the transmission area, just behind the instrument panel console on the floor between your feet. The top of it kind of looks like a big wingnut. That is also the place you fill the hydraulics. You have probably found the Hyd. Filter is on the left side of the differential area, just below the floorboards, just under the seat area. It is probably black, about 7" long and 3 3/4" in diameter. I can't remember where you drain the hyd. I will look it up but I think there was a drain on the underside of the tran/differential area. You can read the issues about the filters on this and other forums but it has been difficult to cross the CC manufacturers part numbers to another filter source. You will pay a good price buying the filters from the dealer. The oil filter is in the $15 - $20 range and the hydraulic filter is $37 - $45 from the dealer. Read my post about filters I just did last week, it will give you the part number info, etc. You probably know by now that that series of CC has a Mitsubishi engine and drivetrain. Very tough and I think you will be happy with it.
If I remember right the front differential has to be drained as well for the service. I recall it uses the same hydraulic fluid as you used for the rest of the tractor. Your probably ought to just pick up a 5 gal bucket of a good brand of tractor hydraulic fluid to do the service. You will use several quarts for the tran/diff as well as the front axle.
What AC5Z0 said about he hydraulic lines sounds good to me. I have a Bush Hog loader that uses rubber lines so I don't have the rust problem.
That is what comes to mind right away about the service. There are also some bolts that are critical to keep the torque on them. If you don't have a torque wrench you probably should pick one up.
Let us know how things turn out. The tractor should do a good job for you.
DaveM. ....
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